Chao Phraya Express Boat

A ride on the Chao Phraya River should be high on any tourist's agenda. The cheapest and most popular option is the Chao Phraya Express Boat, basically an aquatic bus plying up and down the river. The basic service (14 baht) plies from the south end at Wat Rajsingkorn (S 03 pier) all the way to the north end at Nonthaburi (N30 pier).

The most popular choice for travelers is stating from the Central Pier at Sathorn (easily access from BTS at Taksin station) cruise to the north and get off at Tha Chang Pier (N 03 pier). The Grand palace wall is opposite to this pier. Views from this route are really fantastic. The fare is just 10 Bath.

For travelers who stay at Banglamphu guesthouses, the best way to get to BTS at Sathorn is by this Chao Phraya Express boat. Tha Phra Arthit (N 13 pier) is opposite to Bang Lamphu travelers zone.

Just board at piers with a sign showing the route and pay the ticket collector who will approach you bearing a long metal cylinder. In addition to the basic service, there are express services flagged with yellow or orange flags, which stop only at major piers and should be avoided unless you're sure where you're going. The signposting of the piers is quite clear, with numbered piers and English route maps, and the Central station offers easy interchange to the BTS Saphan Taksin station.

Chao Phraya Ferry

Most piers will also be served by cross-river ferries which are particularly useful for reaching Wat Arun or Thonburi. They run every few minutes and cost 3 baht - pay at the kiosk on the pier and then walk through the turnstile.

Canal Boat

Canal boats also serve Khlong Saen Saeb, one of Bangkok's many canals ( khlong ). They're cheap and immune to Bangkok's notorious traffic jams, but mostly used by locals who use these water taxis to commute to work and school and shopping, so you get to see the 'backside' of the neighborhoods, so to speak. They're also comparatively safe -- just watch your step when boarding and disembarking (they don't stop at the pier for long) and be wary of the water as it can be quite polluted, do not let it get in your eyes. Pay the fare (14-22 baht) to the fearless helmet-wearing ticket collectors who clamber around on the outside of the boat, ducking at bridges, as it barrels down the canal. The canal runs parallel to Petchaburi Road, and provides the easiest access from the city center to the Golden Mount. There's a boarding pier across from the WTC under the bridge where Ratchadamri crosses the khlong near Petchburi, and piers now even have (tiny) signs in English. Be aware that for journeys going beyond Pratunam, passengers have to change boats at Pratunam. Hold on to your ticket. The only station missing a sign in English was the stop at The Mall in Bangkapi, and it's not obvious that it's a mall from the canal boat!

Finally, for trips outside the set routes, you can hire a long-tail river taxi at any major pier. These are fairly expensive and will attempt to charge as much as 500 baht/hour, but with haggling may be suitable for small groups. To circumvent the mafia-like touts who attempt to get a (large) cut for every ride, agree for the price of the shortest possible ride (half an hour etc), then negotiate directly with the captain when on board.

Tourist Boat

In addition to the workaday express boat, there is also a Tourist Boat which stops at a different subset of piers, offers commentary in English and charges several times the price. The boats are slightly more comfortable and not a bad option for a hop or two, but don't get bullied into buying the overpriced day pass.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand's approved Sri Phraya Boat Trip Co. Ltd can be reached on 02-353-108.